Product Details
- Item Weight: 50 pounds
- Shipping Weight: 57 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
- Shipping: This item is also available for shipping to select countries outside the U.S.
- Shipping Advisory: This item must be shipped separately from other items in your order. Additional shipping charges will not apply.
- ASIN: B0058K3WNO
- Item model number: RL94eN
By : Rinnai
List Price :
Price : $1,108.21
You Save : $642.79 (37%)
Product Description
From the Manufacturer
With a capacity up to 9.4 gallons per minute (GPM) of hot water, the R94LSe is capable of supplying continuous hot water to as many as five plumbing and appliance outlets simultaneously, ensuring you never run out of hot water. You'll appreciate greater energy efficiency, lower energy costs and the simplicity of exterior installation.
Rinnai Tankless Water Heater 9.4 Gallons Per Minute Natural GasSKU: RL94ENImages may not reflect the actual product delivered and should be used only as a general guide. Dimensions, colors/finishes, design, and style may vary.
Technical Details
- 9,900 ? 199,000 BTU
- Comes standard with MC-91-1US Digital Controller with Error Code Indicator
- 83% Thermal Efficiency
- Residential Temperature Settings: 98°F - 140°F
- Commercial Temperature Settings: 98°F - 185°F (commercial controller must be purchased separately)
Rinnai RL94eN Natural Gas Tankless Water Heater, 9.4 Gallons Per Minute
Customer Reviews
When it works, it's pretty good. Doesn't have quite the same "push" as a tank water heater, as there isn't a 300-pound column of water being pulled towards the outlet in the tank by gravity. However, as advertised, it will keep water flowing at a constant temperature. You can take a shower for 5 minutes or 5 hours, and the temperature will never change!
Now, the design flaw. I had to screw around with this thing for about an hour at 3AM to figure out that if it loses power, you have to drain the water tank. If you don't do this, the calibration it tries to run when it's powered on will fail. Fortunately, there is a reasonably quick solution.
The following was adapted from page 15 of the manual: [...] - Use it at your own risk. If your heater doesn't work, maybe just call a plumber. (Hand them a printout of this if they get stumped.)
Here's the steps:
- Disconnect power
- Make sure NOT to stand in front of the MAINTENANCE valves (they open to the front ; have hose connectors)
- Close the cold and hot water valves (the ones that control the in/out pipes directly)
- Open the cold and hot water MAINTENANCE valves
- Wait for water to finish draining completely out of the tank (a minute or less)
- Close the cold and hot water MAINTENANCE valves, and leave the regular valves closed too
- Reconnect the power
- Wait at least 30 seconds for it to calibrate (you'll hear a stepper motor running intermittently)
- Open the cold water (NOT MAINTENANCE) valve
- Wait for the tank to fill (you'll hear water gurgling around in there, and the fan may run for a moment)
- Open the hot water (NOT MAINTENANCE) valve
By starting up with the tank empty, you let it run whatever weird calibration routine it needs. Crap design, if you ask me. It really should be able to recover from that without requiring someone to intuit that it's a calibration problem. (How many end users know about control circuits and sensor polling routines and all the other stuff that went into that deduction? Yeah, me and fifty or sixty other nerds.)
Anyway, I got it working again.
One more thing: In order to raise the heat from the factory setting, which is 115 or something like that, you have to screw around with jumpers and connect an external controller (included) directly to the mainboard. These things aren't terribly hard, just a bit of a pain on the install. I understand they don't want someone thinking it would be a good idea to increase the temperature to 140 degrees, or something like that.
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